GAO Calls For Federal Action To Tackle Growing Textile Waste Crisis
The U.S. Government Accountability Office (GAO) has released a report urging federal agencies to collaborate on addressing the rising issue of textile waste in the United States. The report, titled “Textile Waste: Federal Entities Should Collaborate on Reduction and Recycling Efforts,” highlights the growing environmental hazards of discarded textiles and emphasizes the need for a coordinated national strategy to improve recycling and reduce landfill burden.
Textile waste, which includes discarded apparel, carpets, footwear and other fabric-based products, poses a significant environmental threat. As textiles decompose in landfills, they release harmful greenhouse gases such as methane and carbon dioxide, contributing to climate change. Additionally, chemical contaminants from synthetic fibres and dyes leach into soil and water, further exacerbating pollution. According to GAO’s review of U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) data, 66% of textile waste is landfilled, 19% is burned for energy recovery, and only 15% is recycled. The report attributes the low recycling rate to limited collection infrastructure, inefficient sorting processes and the infancy of textile recycling technologies.
GAO estimates that textile waste has increased by more than 50% between 2000 and 2018, fueled largely by the rise of fast fashion. The shift to mass manufacturing of lower-cost apparel has led to frequent disposal, with textile and apparel imports rising by 182% between 2000 and 2023. Despite this surge, the U.S. lacks a standardized system for tracking textile waste, making it difficult to implement effective national policies. EPA’s textile waste estimates remain the most widely used data, but the agency itself acknowledges their limitations due to inconsistent state and municipal reporting.
The report identifies several critical challenges hindering textile waste management. A fragmented and decentralized collection system means most textiles end up in municipal waste streams with limited opportunities for recycling. Textile recycling technology is still in its early stages, with mechanical recycling producing lower-quality fibres and chemical recycling facing scalability and cost barriers. Additionally, the lack of consistent, high-quality feedstock further restricts the expansion of recycling initiatives. GAO also found that federal efforts remain largely isolated, with no national mandate requiring agencies to coordinate on textile waste management.
While some federal entities, including the EPA, the Department of Commerce, and the Department of Energy, have initiated research and pilot projects, GAO noted that these efforts are not integrated. The EPA is planning to develop a National Textile Recycling Strategy within the next 5 to 10 years, while the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) is conducting research on textile sorting and fibre-identification technologies. The Department of Energy has launched funding programmes to support circular economy projects, and the Department of State has convened discussions on extending product lifecycles. However, GAO found that textile waste reduction is a low priority for many agencies, and previous attempts to establish an interagency collaboration group stalled in 2022.
To address these challenges, GAO has recommended that Congress direct a federal entity to lead textile waste reduction efforts and establish a formal interagency collaboration mechanism. It also calls for the development of a National Sustainable Textiles Policy, including an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme to hold manufacturers accountable for the end-of-life management of their products. Financial incentives, grants and subsidies should be introduced to support textile recycling innovation, while infrastructure development, such as textile waste collection centres, should be expanded to make recycling more accessible.
Public awareness and industry engagement are also key to addressing the crisis. GAO has suggested strengthening eco-labeling regulations to inform consumers about textile sustainability, along with national campaigns promoting sustainable fashion and responsible disposal. The report stresses that without immediate action, the textile waste crisis will continue to escalate, harming both the environment and public health.
GAO’s findings signal a critical moment for policymakers, industry leaders and environmental advocates. By fostering collaboration between federal agencies, businesses and consumers, the U.S. can transition toward a circular textile economy and significantly reduce the long-term impact of waste.
