Uganda Turns Banana Waste Into Textiles And Hair Extensions

Researchers in Uganda are transforming discarded banana stems into textiles, hair extensions and sanitary pads, tapping into the rising global demand for sustainable fibres. The Banatex-EA (Banana Textiles in East Africa) project, led by Busitema University, has successfully developed spinnable banana fibre as an alternative to cotton and synthetics.

“Banana fibre shares several desirable properties with cotton,” said Edwin Kamalha, Head of the Department of Polymer, Textile and Industrial Engineering at Busitema University. “It’s a plant that generates a lot of waste. If people can earn from that waste, it becomes a valuable resource.”

Launched in March 2024, the project received £600,600 in funding from the Uganda National Council for Science and Technology under the Science Granting Councils Initiative, with additional support from the UK’s Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office.

While banana is a staple crop grown by nearly three-quarters of Ugandan farmers, most of its stems are discarded after harvest. Farmers like Michael Ssali traditionally leave pseudo-stems in the field to decompose as natural fertiliser.

The Banatex-EA team focused on softening the naturally stiff and coarse banana fibre to make it suitable for spinning. This innovation enabled production of usable threads for fabric and hair extensions. The researchers partnered with TEXFAD, a local textile firm, to commercialise the products and are working with the Uganda National Bureau of Standards to create quality benchmarks.

The National Agricultural Research Laboratories identified Musa or Kayinja — a banana variety traditionally used to brew beer — as the most suitable for fibre extraction, thanks to its strength, sheen and high yield.

Despite promising developments, the initiative faces legislative and market challenges. Uganda’s pending biotechnology bill limits genetic improvements for fibre-specific banana varieties. Moreover, the absence of harmonised system (HS) codes for banana fibre hampers international trade.

Consumer adoption is also an issue. Some users prefer human hair extensions for durability, although market studies with Kenya’s Moi University suggest a growing openness to eco-friendly alternatives.

“Banana fibre is the next fibre for everything,” said Kimani Muturi, Executive Director at TEXFAD. His company is actively training youth in fibre processing to fuel industry growth.

Biotechnology consultant Andrew Kiggundu emphasised that strong market demand will drive success: “If people seek out these products, production will naturally accelerate.”